A Day at Chapala

Mexico's largest lake, and it's been shrinking for decades. The original shoreline is marked on old maps like a ghost of what was. The town has adapted — the docks are longer than they used to be, reaching out toward whatever water remains.

I walked the malecon for two hours without purpose. There were old men playing cards under a tree that looked like it had been there longer than the town. Pelicans. A child trying to get a kite airborne in still air.

This is what slow travel feels like from the inside: you don't arrive anywhere. You just stop moving for a while and notice what was already there.